|Every project I create begins with a detailed sketch. Call it the "blueprint" if you will. Most often, the idea comes many months before the sewing begins, so documentation is critical to achieving my vision.|
To create the bound buttonholes, small squares of the contrasting fabric were marked with the exact size of the buttonhole. The squares were placed onto the right side of the jacket, carefully aligning the tiny dots of the fabrics. Placing the buttonholes even a fraction off will be accentuated because of the dots in the fabric.
Once the squares are aligned and pinned in place, machine stitch around the rectangle of the buttonholes with 1.5mm stitch length, over-stitching it twice. Be precise.
Note the position of the collar as it sits around the neckline. Clips at intervals will prevent puckering once the lining is attached.
This photo illustrated the concept of the hidden placket. Once the buttons are attached and the laps in place, the placket will be hidden inside a pleat. Very cool, but a drafting nightmare.
I wanted to show the placket of the dress in this photo. At the last minute, I decided to eliminate the edge-stitching along the tucks. The pockets and belt are shown here prior to embroidery.
This is the ensemble just prior to embellishments.
Notice the adorable cap sleeves with keyhole opening. This sleeve is outlined in mini piping and lined. A tiny bias binding finishes the sleeve. A .25" gap was purposely left on the sleeve to allow room for the embroidery.